Seville > Córdoba > Madrid

After our time in Morocco, we flew from Marrakech to Seville. It was a quick flight, less than 1.5 hours. We had beautiful, sunny weather in Seville which made exploring the city more enjoyable.

We stayed in an apartment near Setas de Sevilla, which is a massive wooden structure in Plaza de la Encarnación. It has curved, lattice-like canopies resembling a cluster of giant mushrooms (hence the name, as ‘setas’ is the spanish word for mushrooms).

Setas de Sevilla

It has a rooftop walkway & viewing platform that offer panoramic views of the Seville skyline.

On the rooftop walkway
At the Setas de Sevilla viewing platform
View of Seville from above… the city is a mix of historic and modern

I got back to running while we were in Seville, which was nice. Took the following picture on one of my morning runs.

Running along the Canal de Alfonso XIII

Our first day in Seville, we crossed over the water to the Triana neighborhood. We enjoyed lunch at the Triana Market, a local market that has been in operation for over two centuries.

Isabelle II Bridge behind me (which leads to Triana)
Triana Market

After some time in Triana, we went back to the other side of the water to explore the main sites of the city.

Royal Alcázar of Seville (historic royal palace). We didn’t go inside as tickets were sold out.
María Luisa Park
Plaza de España
Flamenco performance at Plaza de España
Street in the Santa Cruz neighborhood where we enjoyed sangria and tapas

In the backdrop of the picture above is the Seville Cathedral and its iconic Giralda tower. The tower was originally the minaret of the Great Mosque of Seville, during the 12th century when the area was under Moroccan rule. Interestingly, it is strikingly similar to the Koutoubia Minaret in Marrakech (where we were the day before!). Both were built under the same dynasty and it’s believed that the Giralda in Seville was inspired by the Koutoubia in Marrakech.

Seville Cathedral

In lieu of paid admission to the Seville Cathedral, we went to mass there that night. The mass was entirely in Spanish and I’m fairly certain we were the only non-locals in attendance.

Mass at the Seville Cathedral

The next day, we rented a car to spend the day hiking in the Sierra Morena de Sevilla Natural Park.

Our tiny rental car

It was a little Fiat. It worked out well to have something small to navigate all the tight streets. I’m glad that Jay did the driving as I would have been too nervous navigating all the roundabouts and winding roads. I was in charge of navigating and that was challenging enough.

Driving the Fiat down the narrow streets of
the village of Cazalla de la Sierra

From the village of Cazalla de la Sierra we hiked through pastures, orchards, olive groves and vineyards.

Passing by many small farms along the way
Following the Hueznar River
Bridge that crosses the Huéznar River
Huéznar River
Beautiful horse
Almost back to the village of Cazalla de la Sierra where we’ll enjoy a meal before driving back to Seville

After Seville, we took the train to Córdoba which was the Roman and Moorish capital of Spain. We stayed in an apartment in San Basilio, a charming neighborhood in the old city.

San Basilio

Córdoba is famous for the stunning Mezquita, a former mosque turned cathedral (like Seville).

Mezquita Catedral de Córdoba
Inside the Mezquita Catedral de Córdoba
The Bell Tower of the Mezquita Catedral de Córdoba

We ascended the steps up the Bell Tower to the different viewing levels which offered panoramic vistas of Córdoba’s historic landscape. 

Inside the Bell Tower
Views from the Bell Tower

Another iconic site in Córdoba is the historic Roman Bridge. It was originally constructed in the early 1st century BC.

Roman Bridge
On the Roman Bridge at sunset
On the Roman Bridge at sunset, the Mezquita Catedral behind me

From Córdoba, we spent a day doing a long stretch on one of the Camino de Santiago routes (the Ruta Mozárabe Norte de Córdoba). We made it a point-to-point hike by taking the bus back to Córdoba at the end of the day.

We passed through landscapes of olive groves, oak forests, and farmland
It was uphill pretty much the entire way. This was one of the steeper stretches.

We ended our hike in the town of Cerro Muriano, where we visited the ruins of an old copper mine. Archaeological findings suggest that mining in this region dates back thousands of years.

Old Copper Mine

Nearby was the natural rock formation ‘La Piedra Horadada’ (The Pierced Stone).

La Piedra Horadada

From Córdoba, we took the train to Madrid, our last stop before Jay flies back home. I’m stay a few more weeks to study Spanish.

Leaving Córdoba

We arrived in Madrid late Sunday afternoon. I started Spanish classes on Monday morning and then Jay flew back home Tuesday morning. We didn’t have too much time to explore Madrid together, but we did hit some of the main sites.

Plaza de España (translates to “Spain Square” in English and is a common name for public squares across Spain)
Royal Palace of Madrid
Perfectly perched peacocks at the Royal Palace of Madrid
Plaza Mayor
Puerta del Sol… this square is the official center of the Spanish road network. It’s ‘Kilómetro Cero’ (Kilometer Zero) from which distances on Spain’s six national highways are measured.
The Bear and the Strawberry Tree statue, a symbol of Madrid as it represents the city’s coat of arms
Calle de Fuencarral… one of many shopping areas in the city

And now, Jay is back home and I’m focused on studying Spanish for a few weeks. I’m doing an intensive Spanish program through Enforex. They have schools in 11 cities in Spain and courses commence every Monday. This week, I did classes in Madrid, next week I’ll be in Salamanca, and my final week will be in Valencia.

Enforex Madrid

The last time I took a Spanish class was back in college, which was now 25 years ago! I’ve unfortunately lost a lot of my Spanish since then. I’m hoping this jump starts my relearning. It’s a life goal of mine to become fluent in Spanish and I’m thankful for the opportunity to dedicate some time toward that now.

At 8:00a on Monday morning, I took a placement exam upon arrival at the school. There were three parts… a multiple choice exam, a written exam, and an oral exam. I tested on the cusp of A2/B1, so they decided to put me in A2 this week as a refresher and then the next two weeks I will be in B1. There are 6 levels of language proficiency, from beginner to near-native: A1, A2, B1, B2, C1, C2. I asked ChatGPT how long it takes the average person to progress through all the levels and this was the response. Needless to say, I’ve got a lot more to learn!

While I’m in Spain, I have 5 hours of classes a day, Monday through Friday. The teachers have been excellent and the classes are small (6-7 students).

In Spanish class

This week, I was the lone older student amongst all the college-age students. And, I was the only one from the United States. In my classes were students from France, China, Luxembourg, Brazil, Saudi Arabia, and Azerbaijan. I enjoyed the diversity. I’m curious to see what the schools will be like in Salamanca and Valencia.

But for now, time to go to bed as I’m running the Madrid Half Marathon in the morning!

Picking up my bib at the race expo

4 responses to “Seville > Córdoba > Madrid

  1. Hi: Our amazing journey continues. I’,m so taken by the beautiful buildings and the narrow streets. Good luck with all your spanish classes. They sound challenging to say the least. Love, Grandma

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  2. Loved seeing parts of Spain we did not travel to, but your story did remind me of the small Fiat we had to tour around. Once we were getting so many “odd” looks as we ventured up a quite narrow street. Turns out it was a sidewalk (not a street and nowhere to turn around at the top, so George had the pleasure of backing down the whole way). Oops. Pretty sure they thought we were crazy (or stupid) Americanos. Good luck in your studies.

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